Yes – what often differs between pedals is the dispersion and component aging that changes the sound. Often there is also a bit of “voodoo”, that older devices are often supposed to sound better than newer productions. The fact is that the tolerances have become significantly better and tighter than in the 90s.
We owe this largely to unique, if not THE, Nashville session player Tom Bukovac and his local dealer Mike E.
But click here to hear the story first hand…
Yes, in the early days some models were offered in OEM and even developed together for Fender (MS8).
What means OEM? Original Equipment Manufacturer
An original equipment manufacturer (OEM) traditionally is defined as a company whose goods are used as components in the products of another company/distribution, which then sells the finished item to users under their own brand.
Here is a small overview of the companies:
Fender, Rhino, Series10, JHS, Phonic Rock Box, Hello Kitty, Shadow, Rok Axe, Impact, Kramer, Dean…
There is a remote socket on the back of the pedal. Here you can remotely control the on/off function of the pedal using a simple jack cable in connection with a switch. It is important to use a button that does NOT have an automatic snap-in function, but only emits a short pulse.
You can also install the pedal in a rack and switch it with a looper/switcher system.
The current pedals (ODR-1 from 2020 with Bass Cut / ODR-1 Ltd and ODR-mini) can be operated with a DC voltage of 9-18 volts. Older ODR-1 without bass cut switch only from 9-12 volts DC.
Always pay attention to the polarity and voltage!
A higher operating voltage allows the sound to have a little more headroom and thus a little more transparency. This is of course a matter of taste and not always desirable. Even a very low voltage (dying battery) is sometimes appealing. Here you get almost sounds like a FUZZ.
Many popular overdrives used a simple adjustable filter for the high frequencies. It was called “Tone” or “Treble” and really just reduced the high frequencies added by the overdrive electronics. Of course, this greatly limits the variety of sounds and possibilities.
After much sound testing, Kai Tachibana developed what was then, and we still believe, the unique double filter control called “Spectrum”. Not only the usual highs are raised or lowered, but also the lower mids/bass (~300 Hz). In the 12 o’clock position the sound is almost neutral. Turning the control counter-clockwise minimizes the treble and bass. Raised clockwise.
This allows a variety of EQ settings with just one knob.
The ODR-mini a little bit tighter than is big brother and have a different frequency range in the bass.
But the DNA is the same and the basic sound very close.
You will find some demos at our YouTube cannel.
Nobels YouTube Channel – click here
A true bypass was often requested for the ODR Overdrive and we have implemented this wish in the ODR-mini.
A true bypass pedal allows the tone and signal of your guitar to flow through unaffected when the pedal is off. This means that all the tone of your guitar is preserved – the pedal does not colour it at all when it’s not being used.
However, due to the fact the true bypass pedal does nothing to boost or enhance the signal, the more pedals you have and the longer the signal cable from board to Amp/Instrument (over 18.5ft), the more degradation and tone loss will occur. This is great for tone snobs and those who use smaller length cables.
It all has its pros and cons.
It’s also a question of manufacturing costs. A buffered bypass is significantly more expensive in terms of effort.
A buffered pedal strengthens your tone and drives it through the chain, restoring the signal and tone to what it should be. A buffer does this at all times, whether the pedal is on or off. If you are using longer cables over 18.5ft on both sides of the pedal i.e. guitar to pedal to amp, then a buffered pedal will preserve the signal and push it to the amp. Imagine it as someone cheering you on. You have the tone, but there’s something supporting it and helping you get there safely. Some guitarists will argue that a buffered pedal will add too much high end, when in reality it provides a far more pronounced and responsive signal.
It’s also often a philosophical question, and everything has its pros and cons.
Many years ago we decided on a socket provider that is sealed, which means it is a bit stiff at first, but does not wear out.
With daily use, the bushings become smoother.
In all these years we haven’t had any problems anchoring the sockets on the circuit board.
So no worries!